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Agate
Agate is a variety of Chalcedony Quartz and comes
in many different color combinations. No two agates are alike. Varieties of
agate include Blue, Blue Lace, Crazy Lace, Green, Indian, Moss, Tree, and Wood.
Chalcedony (Agate) are "Hardness 7" on the Mohs scale.
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AGS
American Gem Society - A professional jeweler's
society founded in 1934. AGS has a laboratory which grades diamonds and offers
a diamond grading report. AGS has a cut grading system for round diamonds.
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AGS Diamond Cut Grade
The American Gem Society has developed a system for
classifying cut quality. The AGS system uses a 0 to 10 system: Cut grade 0 as
Ideal, 2 as Very Fine and 10 being the lowest grade and quality. The AGS cut
grade 0 ideal endorses table percentages between 51.6% to 57.5% as ideal with
57.6 to 62% as very fine AGS cut grade 2.
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Alloy
An
alloy is a mixture of two or more metals.
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Amber
A delicate, fossilized tree resin that often locks
in secrets from the past. Amber is available in a wide array of colors, the
most popular ranging from yellow to orange, mimicking the color of honey
touched by the setting sun. Other less common colors of amber include red,
green, blue, violet and black. Ranging from transparent to opaque, the finest
amber is clear with little or no cloudiness.
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Amethyst
Amethyst is a member of the quartz family. Amethyst
displays a majestic hue of purple, moving from very light to very dark. With
purple being the chosen color of royalty, amethyst has enjoyed an unwavering
popularity dating back thousands of years. The finest quality of amethyst
exhibits a high degree of transparency and a rich deep purple color enhanced by
flashes of burgundy or rose. Amethyst are most commonly found in Brazil,
Uruguay, Canada and the United States (North Carolina). Amethyst is the
birthstone for February.
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Anniversary Band
Typically given for wedding anniversaries, an
anniversary band is a ring that is set with one or more rows of gems, usually
diamonds. The diamonds may go completely, three quarters, or half way around
the finger. Any anniversary is appropriate for giving this ring, however,
recently the diamond anniversary band has been promoted in major advertising
campaigns as the perfect gift for the tenth wedding anniversary. An anniversary
band can be used in addition to, or instead of, a traditional wedding ring.
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Appraisal
An appraisal is a written estimate of the
approximate retail replacement value of the item described. Appraisals can also
be used for insurance purposes.
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Aquamarine
Aquamarine
is a member of the beryl family and is related to emerald in composition. The
Greeks proclaimed this highly prized, light blue gem aquamarine, because it
sparkles like the sea touched by the sun. Found in an array of pastel tones
from very light to medium blue, aquamarine is often tinted by a splash of
green. The delicate greenish blue of a fine aquamarine conjures up images of
dancing light on the purest of tropical waters. Most aquamarines come from
Brazil. Aquamarine is the birthstone for March.
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Baguette Cut
A baguette cut is a gemstone or diamond that is cut
in a rectangular shape, which is typically used to accent a central stone. A
tapered baguette has one short end narrower than the opposite end, forming a
trapezoid. A term derived from the French, meaning long and thin as in baguette
breads.
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Bail
A bail is the attachment at the top of a pendant,
enabling the pendant to hang from a chain.
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Band
A simple ring of equal width around its
circumference.
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Bangle
A one-piece bracelet that is wide enough to slip
onto the wrist. It can also be made of two hinged pieces that are clasped
around the wrist. Bar Setting
A variation on the channel setting, bar settings
are usually used for wedding bands or designer rings. In the bar setting, thin
metal bars are placed between each gemstones on a band to hold them securely in
place. This design protects the girdle of the round gemstones or diamonds,
holds them securely in place, and offers a smooth, sleek appearance. Bar and
channel settings typically cost more than prong settings.
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Baroque Pearls
Large oddly shaped pearls that are usually used as
art pieces.
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Bead Setting
A method of setting stones even with the surface of
metal by raising beads from the metal itself. The beads act as prongs to secure
the stones.
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Belcher
A claw style ring mounting that is common in rings
for men. The mounting is one piece with the prongs being part of the shank.
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Beryl
Beryl is a family of gemstones that includes: green
beryl, aquamarine, emerald, heliodor (pink), morganite (yellow), and red.
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Bezel
Any part that incorporates a continuous groove to
fit something, generally a gem stone or diamond.
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Bezel Setting
A bezel setting holds a gemstone or diamond in
place using a thin band of metal that surrounds the stone at its middle, or
girdle. Bezel settings can completely or partially surround the gem stone or
diamond, depending on the style and look desired. This type of setting provides
good protection for the middle and bottom portions of a gemstone or diamond.
Bezel settings can have straight or scalloped edges, and can be molded to
accommodate many shapes of stones.
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Biwa Pearls
A Biwa pearl is a pearl that comes from a specific
region in Lake Biwa, Japan.
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Black Pearls (also
know as Tahitian Pearls)
Black pearls that are gray to black with green,
blue or rose overtones.
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Blemish
A blemish is a defect in a gemstone or diamond that
is found at the surface. Examples of blemishes include pits, nicks, scratches,
chips or even an extra facet where none should be. A blemish is an imperfection
on the outside of a diamond or gemstone, which differs from an inclusion. An
inclusion is internal to the gemstone or diamond.
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Blister Pearls
A blister pearl is a pearl that grows attached to
the oyster shell on its side.
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Blue Topaz
Blue topaz is light brown or colorless when mined,
but turns blue when exposed to light or heat. The largest producer of topaz is
Brazil. Blue topaz is one of the birthstones for December.
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Box Chain
A box chain is a chain with wide, square links that
form boxes.
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Box Clasp
A box clasp has a hollow housing with a groove in
which a spring tongue clicks into place to secure the clasp shut.
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Bridal Jewelry
Bridal jewelry is a general term used to describe
the category of wedding rings, engagement rings, gifts for the bride or groom
and gifts for the best man, maid of honor, ushers, bridesmaids and others
taking part in the wedding ceremony.
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Brilliance
Brilliance describes the amount of light a gemstone
or diamond reflects to create sparkle.
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Brilliant Cut
A brilliant cut is a type of round cut with facets
designed to produce the greatest brilliance. The brilliant cut is the most
common style of diamond cutting. The standard brilliant cut consists of 32
facets plus a table above the girdle and 24 facets plus a culet below the
girdle.
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Briolette Cut
A gemstone or diamond that is cut in a teardrop
form. This type of cut is used in many drops and pendants.
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Brooch
A brooch is an ornamental piece of jewelry with a
pin and clasp to be attached to clothing, etc.
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Brushed Finish
Brushed finish, also known as satin finish,
is a texturing technique used on jewelry metals where a series of tiny parallel
lines are scratched on the surface with a wire brush.
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Buttercup
A buttercup is a six-prong setting, with tall
prongs, that resembles a flower. The setting is scalloped in design.
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Button Earrings
Button earrings are flat, typically round earrings
that sit on the earlobe and have no dangling parts.
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Byzantine Chain
A
Byzantine chain is a type of chain that has close-fitting links, which create
an intricate design and form a tubular chain.
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Cabochon
A cabochon is a smooth, round, unfaceted gemstone
cut. It's often used to reveal the beauty of semiprecious stones. Their shape
can be: oval, round, triangle, square or teardrop.
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Carat Weight
A carat is a very accurate unit of weight that is
used for diamonds and gemstones. The word carat is derived from the carob seed,
which was used in the days of antiquity as counterweights on scales for small
measurements because Carob seeds were extremely similar in weight. One carat is
equal to 100 points.
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Carbon
A diamond is composed of pure carbon. Carbon, when
subjected to tremendous amounts of heat and pressure, crystallizes. However,
many diamonds do not completely crystallize. As a diamond crystal forms, some
Carbon may not be crystallized resulting in birthmarks known as inclusions.
Inclusions aid jewelers in identifying diamonds and make every diamond unique.
The best way to identify your diamond is to know what its inclusions look like,
unless of course you are fortunate enough to own a flawless diamond that has
perfect crystal structure and no inclusions.
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Certification
A certification is a grading report that is given
to a diamond or gemstone by a reputable and recognized gemological laboratory
that defines the physical characteristics and quality rating of a gem.
Typically a diamond or colored gem is rated for quality using the Four C's:
Cut, Color, Clarity and Carat Weight.
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Chalcedony
Chalcedony was once believed to protect from the
Evil Eye and give the owner a calm disposition.
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Champagne color diamond
A champagne colored diamond has a light brownish
color.
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Channel Setting
Channel
setting is the art of setting gemstones or diamonds in a channel. This setting
has two walls of metal between which a gem or diamond is set, so that it
appears suspended in a groove. Channel setting is generally used for stones of
similar size, but graduated gemstones or diamonds can also be channel set in
this manner. A piece of jewelry with a groove for stones to be set in is also
referred to as a channel setting.
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Charm
A charm is a decorative pendant or trinket that is
worn on a bracelet, necklace or earring.
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Chiton Setting
A chiton setting (also called coronet or arcade
setting) is one in which the stone is held in by many metal claws around a
metal ring.
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Citrine
A member of the quartz family, the citrine is
prized for its sunny yellow to earthy brown color. It takes its name from
"citron", the French word for lemon. Citrine is found mainly in
Brazil, as well as in Uruguay, Scotland and the United States (North Carolina).
Citrine is one of the birthstones for November as well as the anniversary
gemstone for the 13th year of marriage.
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Clarity
Clarity is one of the 4 C's of diamond grading.
Diamonds and gemstones with the highest clarity contain few or no inclusions
(imperfections) in the stone's crystalline structure. Clarity is graded with a
10x magnifier. The clarity rating of a diamond ranges from FL (flawless) to I
(inclusions visible to the naked eye).
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Clarity Enhancement
A diamond is chemically formed from a natural
grain. When spaces are formed within that grain, an imperfection is formed.
Through clarity enhancement, it is now possible to fill in those cracks with
material, improving the imperfections as well as the overall appearance of the
diamond. This process is reversible, meaning that the enhancement could be
taken out of the stone by applying direct heat source to the stone. If such a
direct heat source is applied to the stone - the treatment could be done over
without causing any damage to the stone.
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Clarity Grade
The term grade is used to describe the amount of,
or absence of, inclusions within a diamond or other gemstone. A diamond's
clarity grading scale consists of eleven clarity grades.
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Clasp
A clasp is a device used to connect two ends of a
necklace, bracelet, watch bracelet or watchstrap.
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Claw Setting
A claw setting is one in which a series of metal
prongs (called claws) holds a stone securely in a setting (the claws grips the
stone just above the girdle of the stone), with no metal directly under the
stone (it is an open setting). A claw setting lets light in under the stone, so
this type of setting is usually used for transparent, faceted stones. The
modern-day claw setting became popular in the 1800's.
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Cleavage
Cleavage is the natural way in which a gemstone or
diamond has the tendency to break along its crystal structure.
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Clip-Back or Clip-On Earring
Designed for non-pierced ears. Works like a hinge
to secure the earring to the earlobe.
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Cloisonnt
Cloisonnt is a method of applying enamel to metal
in which the design is first outlined on the metal surface using a metal wire.
The space between the wires is filled with enamel and then fired to a glassy
sheen.
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Closed Setting
A closed setting is one in which the back of the
stone is not exposed (the metal is not cut away behind the stone).
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Cloudy
A cloud is a type of inclusion. However, unlike
carbon inclusions, which are black,clouds are white milky areas (clusters of tiny crystals)
inherent in a diamond or gemstone.
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Cluster Ring
A cluster ring is set with many small gemstones or
diamonds. The gemstones or diamonds may be of similar or different colors or
sizes.
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Cluster Setting
A cluster setting has small stones set clustered
around a larger center stone.
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Clutch
A clutch is a device that is used to secure a piece
of jewelry, such as backings for earrings.
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Collar Bar
A collar bar is worn beneath a tie, which is
attached to the collar of a shirt.
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Color
Color is one of the 4 C's of diamond grading. The
letters D through Z are used to designate a diamond's color with D being
colorless and Z-graded stones having a lot of color.
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Colored Stones
All gemstones other than diamonds, or colored Diamonds.
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Comfort Fit Ring
In a comfort fit ring, the inner edges of the ring
are very much rounded and smooth, making the interior of the ring looking
similar to a slight dome profile. This is done to avoid discomfort due to sharp
angles.
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Cubic Zirconia
Cubic Zirconia, or CZ, is a hard, relatively
inexpensive stone created in laboratories and often cut to resemble a diamond.
Cubic zirconia was developed in 1977.
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Cuff Links
Cuff links are jewelry that is usually designed
with a post and hinge that goes through the two buttonholes of a shirt (French
cuffs - without buttons). The hinge opens to create a "T" that
secures the shirt cuff.
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Culet
The culet is the minute facet on the tip of the
pavilion of a brilliant cut diamond.
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Cultured Pearls
A cultured pearl is created by the insertion of a
grain of sand into an oyster. The oyster's protective coating slowly develops
into the pearl. Most pearls available today are cultured. CFW is an abbreviation
for cultured freshwater pearls. Cultured pearl is the birthstone for June.
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Cushion Cut
A cushion cut is a gemstone that is cut to mimic a
square, yet has rounded edges. The cut is usually brilliant to give the highest
light refraction.
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Custom Design
Custom designed jewelry is made to order.
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Cut
Cut
is one of the 4 C's of diamond grading. How well a diamond is cut has a lot to
do with the stone's fire and brilliance. A diamond that is cut either too
shallow or too deep will not be as brilliant as a properly cut diamond.
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Dangle Drop) Earrings
A
dangle or drop earring is a long earring that extends below the earlobe.
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Demi-parure
A demi-parure is a matching set of jewelry, usually
containing a necklace, earrings, and a pin.
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Deployant Buckle
A deployant buckle is a three-folding clasp, which
connects the two ends of a watch bracelet and allows enough room for placing
the watch on the wrist when fully extended.
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Depth
Depth is the distance from the very top of a
diamond or gemstone to the very bottom of a diamond or gemstone.
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Diamond
The hardest, rarest, densest natural substance
known to man. A precious gemstone composed of pure Carbon. A diamond's quality
is rated in accordance with the Four C's: Cut, Color, Clarity and Carat Weight.
While Africa is known as the Diamond continent, it is actually in Australia
that the largest reserves are to be found - including the very rare and highly
valued pink and red fancy colored diamonds.
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Diamond accent
A diamond accent is any jewelry that has one or
more diamonds with a combined carat weight of less than one-fourth of a carat.
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Diamond Cut
Small scallop like bright cuts in metal created
with a diamond cutting tool that create the illusion of diamonds being set into
the metal.
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Diamond Grade
A value used in a diamond grading system to
categorize the color or clarity of a Diamond.
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Dispersion
The fiery, rainbow colors emanating from a diamond
as white light is broken-up into colors.
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Doublet
A
doublet (also dublette) is a gem made from two layers in order to save
expenses; the lower part of the composite stone is glass or a non-precious
stone, the top is the more valuable stone. Many different types of doublets
have been manufactured (including opal doublets). One common doublet contains a
layer of real garnet and a layer of glass. A thin, red garnet top is glued to a
colored glass bottom. A green glass bottom with a red garnet top layer produces
an emerald-like stone. A diamond is enlarged by cementing it to a crystal base.
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Earring Jacket
An earring jacket is a decorative backdrop that
surrounds a stud earring. The stud can be removed and placed into different
jackets.
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EGL
European Gemological Laboratory - EGL has
franchises in a number of cities around the world which grade diamonds and
offer a diamond grading certificate.
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Electroplating
The process of coating a base metal with a thin
film of gold by means of electrolysis. The base metal is set in a chemical
solution (liquid conductor), which, as an electric current flows through it,
coats it with precious metal.
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Embossed
A mechanical process done under considerable heat
and pressure that permanently imprints a variety of unique grain effects into
the leather surface.
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Emerald
Emerald, with its rich green reflecting the colors
of spring, has been treasured for thousands of years as an emblem of rebirth
and enduring love. Emeralds are made of the base mineral beryl, with minute
traces of chromium and vanadium giving this gemstone the "green
fire". Today, most emeralds are mined in Colombia, Brazil and Zambia.
Colombian emeralds are known for their vivid green color, while Brazilian
emeralds are known for their variety of color, ranging from light green to fine
medium dark green. With hardness close to 8 on the Moh's scale, emeralds are
quite durable. Emerald is the birthstone for May.
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Emerald Cut
A rectangular, faceted gemstone cut that was first
used in emeralds. The emerald cut has a deep center that intensifies stone
color.
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Engagement Ring
An engagement ring is set with a gemstone or
diamond, and is traditionally given to a woman by a man to signify their
intention to be married.
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Engraving
Engraving is the process of etching a design,
initials, family crest or anything else into the surface of metal. The
traditional method of hand engraving is becoming less common as it is replaced
by sophisticated computerized techniques. An experienced and skillful hand engraver
is difficult to find these days.
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Eye-Clean
In
clarity-grading, eye-clean diamonds should have no inclusions that are visible
through the table to the unaided eye.
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Facet
A facet is a smooth, flat surface cut into a
gemstone or diamond to refract and reflect light.
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Fancy Color Diamond
A diamond that exhibits a strong color, such as
yellow, as opposed to an off colored white diamond. Fancy colored diamonds can
be very expensive and are often highly prized by collectors. Fancy colored
diamonds have been found in many colors of the spectrum.
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Fancy Shapes (or Cuts)
Gemstones or diamonds cut in any way other than
round. Fancy shapes include marquise, emerald, pear, heart, oval, princess,
baguette and trillion.
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Faux
Faux means false. A faux gem or diamond is an
imitation.
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Feather
A feather is an inherent inclusion, or flaw, within
a diamond or gemstone. It is often only a tiny crack. Depending on the depth or
placement of the feather, these fissures as they are often called, can make a gemstone or
diamond more fragile and susceptible to further cracking; However, it is
possible that it may have no affect on the strength or beauty of the diamond
whatsoever.
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Filigree
A filigree design is lace-like ornamental detail
made from intricately arranged wires.
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Finish
The finish of a diamond refers to the polish on the
external portion of a diamond. When a diamond or gemstone is well cut and
polished, it is said to have a beautiful finish. Finish is also used to
describe the polish or texture applied to the metal on an item of jewelry.
Common finishes include high polish, matte, brushed, or Florentine.
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Fire
Fire is the rainbow prism of light that reflects
from within a finished diamond or gemstone and is technically known as
dispersion. The better a diamond or gemstone is cut or faceted, the more fire
is emitted from within the gemstone.
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Fissure
A fissure is an elongated fracture or crack in the
surface of a diamond or gemstone.
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Florentine Finish
A Florentine finish is a crosshatched pattern,
tooled into the surface of metal. The lines are often coarser and more deeply
incised than that on a brushed finish.
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Fluorescence
Fluorescence is the light that is emitted from a
diamond when subjected to ultraviolet rays. This fluorescent glow is not
considered when grading a diamond for quality (using the Four C's); it is
simply an inherent characteristic of a diamond (or gemstone).
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Four C's
An abbreviation used to describe the Color,
Clarity, Carat and Cut of a gemstone or diamond as defined by the G.I.A. The
G.I.A. created a diamond grading system using the 4Cs.
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Fracture
A fracture is a crack or feather in a diamond or
gemstone in the opposite direction of its naturally occurring crystals.
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French Back
A French back is an earring back for non-pierced
ears where the earring is tightened against the earlobe by means of a screw.
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Freshwater Pearl
A
freshwater pearl is formed in a lake or river. Freshwater pearls are known for
their unusual forms.
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Garnet
Usually dark red stones, garnets can also occur in
shades of green, yellow, orange, brown, pink and purple. The name Garnet is
believed to have derived from pomegranate with its red, Garnet colored seeds. They are mined
in Russia, Sri Lanka, Brazil, Argentina, Afghanistan, Madagascar, Canada,
Mexico, Tanzania, India and the United States (California). It has a hardness
of 6.5 --7.5 on the Moh's Scale. Garnet is the birthstone for January.
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Gemstone (Gem)
A stone that has been cut and polished for use in
jewelry, which also fulfills the requirements of beauty, durability and rarity.
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German Silver
German silver (also know as nickel silver) is an
alloy consisting of mostly copper (roughly 60 percent), and approximately 20
percent nickel, about 20 percent zinc, and sometimes about 5 percent tin (then
the alloy is called alpaca). There is no silver at all in German silver. This
alloy was invented around 1860 in Germany as a silver substitute.
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G.I.A."The Gemological Institute of America"
G.I.A. is a highly respected, not for profit
organization, devoted to the promotion of education and ethics within the
jewelry industry. G.I.A. also has a laboratory used to grade and identify
gemstones.
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Girdle
The outermost (widest) edge of a diamond or
gemstone. Girdle is the largest diameter of any part of a gemstone or diamond.
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Gold
A warm, yellow metal of great beauty, value and
weight. In its pure state, measured as 24 karats, it is too soft to be worked
for jewelry. Alloy metals are melded with pure gold to create harder substances
and colors like white and pink gold. Eighteen karat gold is 18 of 24 parts pure
gold, while 14 karat gold is 14 of 24 parts pure gold.
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Gold Filled (also known as Gold Overlay)
An item made of a base metal such as brass or
copper, to which a sheet of gold is bonded by pressure or other means. To
qualify as gold filled, an article of jewelry must have a layer of gold at
least 1/20th, or 5% of the weight of the entire article.
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Gold Plated
A thin layer of electroplated gold that is on a
base metal. All gold plated items are not plated with fine gold; some are only
plated gold in color.
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Grading Report
The grading report, also know as a certificate, is
issued by an independent laboratory. It should accurately describe the
proportions, weight, color, clarity, symmetry, polish and possible fluorescence
seen in the diamond or gemstone being evaluated. Some labs such as the G.I.A.
and A.G.S. are felt by many experts to be more consistent and stringent in
their grading than some other labs.
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Grams
Grams,
which is abbreviated GR, is usually used to express the weight of jewelry pieces.
Grams is a metric unit of mass equal to one thousandth of a kilogram
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Half-Hoop Design Earring
Earring that appears to be hoop-shaped, not fully
circular in shape.
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Hallmark
A hallmark is an official mark (or a series of
marks) made in metal that indicates the fineness of the metal and the
manufacturer's mark. For example, a hallmark of 925 indicates 925 parts of gold
per 1000 weight. Other hallmarks indicate the maker of the piece and sometimes
the year of manufacture. In many countries (like Britain) it is illegal to
hallmark metal incorrectly; some countries are notoriously lax in their
enforcement of hallmark honesty.
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Hand Made
A hand made piece of jewelry is created completely
by hand. It is not assembled from parts or made in a die or mold in anyway
whatsoever.
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Hardness
Hardness is a stone's ability to resist scratching,
surface inclusions, abrasions or cracking.
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Heart and Arrows Cut
Hearts and Arrows is the term used for super ideal
cut diamonds that exhibit a complete and precise Hearts & Arrows pattern.
Hearts & Arrows diamonds have three distinguishing factors - perfection in
polish, symmetry, and proportion. This effect is attained when all the facets
are precisely aligned and the diamonds are cut and polished to perfection. In
order for the diamond to attract and reflect the maximum amount of light, it
must be cut with expert craftsmanship, precision and control. When these fine
cutting techniques are employed, they produce diamonds that excel in
brilliance, fire and scintillation.
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Heart Cut
A diamond or gemstone cut in the shape of a heart.
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Herkimer Diamond
Herkimer diamonds are clear, lustrous, doubly
terminated crystals of quartz - they are not true diamonds. These brilliant
stones are also called "Middleville Diamonds" or "Little Falls
Diamonds." Herkimer diamonds have a hardness of 7.
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High Polish
High polish refers to the mirror-like surface of
jewelry metal.
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Hoop Earrings
A circular earring made from metal wire or tubing.
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Hue
Hue
is the term used for the actual color of the spectrum (red, orange, yellow,
green, blue, indigo or violet). The more pure a gemstone's hue, the more
valuable. Because gemstones are comprised of many naturally occurring elements,
they typically emit one primary color and one or more underlying colors.
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I.G.I.
I.G.I, which stands for the International
Gemological Institute, is a laboratory that offers grading reports. I.G.I. also
produces written appraisals.
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Illusion Setting
An illusion setting is used to make diamonds appear
larger than they are.
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Imitations
Any gemstone or diamond that does not have the same
chemical composition as the stones they resemble are imitations. They may be
made by nature or man. For example, red glass can be a man-made imitation for
ruby. Garnets used to mimic rubies would be natural imitations.
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Inclusion
An inclusion is a imperfection or flaw in a diamond
or other gemstone that affects the stone's clarity. Many inclusions decrease
the value of a stone, but some, like rutile forming asterisms in star sapphires
and needles in rutilated quartz and tourmalinated quartz, are prized.
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Inlay
A decorative element, such as a stone or piece of
metal, that is embedded in and is flush with another surface to form a pleasing
pattern or shape.
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Iolite
Iolite is a transparent, violet-blue, light blue,
or yellow-gray mineral that will show many colors in a single stone. It is a
durable stone with a hardness of 7-7.5 on the Mohs scale. Most of the Iolite
available today comes from Sri Lanka, India, Madagascar and Burma. Iolite has
become the accepted anniversary gemstone for the twenty-first year of marriage.
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Iridescent
A shimmery effect best known in pearls and opals in
which different colors are visible depending on how the light strikes the
material.
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Irradiated Diamonds
Irradiated
diamonds are diamonds that have been exposed to radiation. This changes the
diamond's color (as the radiation changes the crystalline structure of the
diamond). The change in the diamond is permanent. Older radiation treatments
involving exposing the stone to radium; newer treatments bombard the stone with
atomic particles in a cyclotron (which accelerates protons, neutrons, or
alpha-partices to high speeds). Newer irradiation techniques bombard the
crystal with atomic particles in a cyclotron, and then the stone is heated to
about 800 degrees Centigrade, producing a stone with very little radioactivity
and a permanent color change.
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Jade
The term jade actually refers to two distinct types
of stone that closely resemble one another - the more common nephrite and the
more expensive jadeite. Jadeite predominantly comes from Burma and while it is
available in gray, yellow, pink, blue, lavender, red, white, brown and black,
it is most popular in the classic green. The Chinese jade, has been a physical
symbol of spiritual virtue. When jade is designed for jewelry it is said to
fend off evil spirits. It has been given a reputation as a symbol for modesty,
courage, wisdom, and justice.
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J Hoop
A J hoop earring is one in which the hoop is
elongated in a shape resembling the letter J.
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Jump Ring
A
jump ring is an oval or round ring of metal wire used as an attachment loop on
charms, as a pendant bail, or as an end ring on a chain.
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Karat
Karat
(abbreviated K or Kt or Kts) is the measurement of gold used to note the purity
and fineness of the metal. Pure gold is 24 karat and one karat is equal to1/24
part pure gold in an alloy. (14kt. gold is 14 parts gold and 8 parts other
metal.)
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Lapis Lazuli
This stones name comes from the Latin word for
stone, lapis. Lapis lazuli is the only rock - composed of several minerals
rather than a single one. The characteristic blue comes from sodalite minerals,
with any white coming from calcite, and its sparkling gold flecks from pyrite.
Lapis Lazuli is one of the most popular stone for men's jewelry and most
commonly appears as beads or earrings in women's jewelry.
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Lariat
A type of necklace consisting of a long strand that
is sometimes looped into a knot or used with a slide so the two ends hang free.
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Lavalier
A lavalier is a pendant with a dangling stone that
hangs from a necklace.
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Length
Length is the linear measurement of a bracelet or
necklace. An average ladies' bracelet is 7 in length
and an average men's bracelet is 8 in length. The length of a
necklace averages 16-24 in length.
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Lever Back Earring
A leverback earring is a style that latches behind
the ear.
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Lobster Claw Clasp
A clasp for a necklace or bracelet that has an
elongated hook, which resembles a lobster claw. The hook has a spring mechanism
and opens to clasp a small ring on the other end of the chain or strand.
Loupe
A small magnifying lens, usually 10x magnification.
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Luster
Luster
is the degree to which a diamond or gemstone reflects light.
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Marquise
A gemstone shape pointed at both ends and oval
shaped in the center.
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Matinee-length
A matinee-length necklace is a single strand that
is from 22 to 23 inches (56 to 58 cm) long. Matinee-length generally refers to
a string of pearls that hangs to the top of the cleavage.
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Matte Finish
Matte finish, also known as a brushed or satin
finish, is a texturing technique used on jewelry metals where a series of tiny
parallel lines are scratched on the surface with a wire brush.
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Melee
A melee is a small diamond, under .20 carats.
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Memory Wire
Memory wire is a tough, stiff wire that retains its
shape. It is often used for necklaces and bracelets.
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Metal
A solid mineral element, such as bronze or copper,
that is able to conduct heat and electricity, is pliable under heat or
pressure. Platinum, gold, and silver are considered precious metals.
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Mexican Diamond
Mexican diamond is a misleading term for rock
crystal, and is not a diamond at all.
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Millimeters
Millimeters, which is abbreviated MM, is a metric
measurement used for pearls, diamonds & gemstones.
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Mine Cut
Mine cut stones have a cushion-shaped girdle. This
type of cut was popular in the late 1800's.
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Mohs Scale
The Moh's scale was devised in 1812 by Austrian
mineralogist, Friedrich Moh, to measure a mineral's hardness and it's
resistance to scratching. The scale goes from talc as number 1, being the
softest, to diamonds as number 10, being the hardest substance known.
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Montana Ruby
A Montana ruby is actually a pyrope garnet, and is
not a ruby at all.
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Moonstone
Moonstone is the most valuable variety of feldspar
with an iridescent sheen known as adularescence. Moonstone's characteristic
shimmer is caused by the intergrowth of two different types of feldspar with
different refractive indexes. Moonstones come in a variety of colors, ranging
from colorless to gray, brown, yellow, green, or pink.
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Mother of Pearl
(abbreviated MOP)
Mother of Pearl, which is abbreviated MOP, is the
"Stone of Sincerity". It signifies faith, charity, and innocence, and
is believed to enhance personal integrity. It has been used to inhibit boisterous
behavior, and to provide a reflection of the self such that one may see the
manner in which one appears to others. Absorbs negative energy, clarifies
feelings, and stabilizes. Aids with allergies and asthma.
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Mounting
Mounting is the process of setting or attaching a
gemstone or diamond. It's also a piece of jewelry, into which gemstones or
diamonds can be set.
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Mystic Topaz
Mystic
fire (also called mystic topaz or rainbow topaz) is topaz that has been color
enhanced by coating it with a fine layer of metal atoms (in a process called
vacuum deposition). This stone has red, green, violet, and blue streaks. Mystic
fire has a hardness of 8.
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Natural
Natural gemstones and diamonds are material that
has not been chemically or otherwise altered in anyway.
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Natural Pearls
Natural pearls are made without any human
intervention.
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Nickel Silver
Nickel silver (also know as German silver) is an
alloy consisting of mostly copper (roughly 60 percent), and approximately 20
percent nickel, about 20 percent zinc, and sometimes about 5 percent tin (then
the alloy is called alpaca). There is no silver at all in German/nickel silver.
This alloy was invented around 1860 in Germany as a silver substitute.
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Oiling
Oiling, a process of applying mineral oil to a
stone, is used to mask inclusions or enhance the color of a gemstone. Emeralds,
although very valuable are typically infused with inclusions. Emeralds are
often oiled to improve quality.
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Omega
An omega chain has closely interlocking links,
which forms a flat, solid surface.
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Omega Back
An omega back is a hinged closure resembling the
Latin letter, Omega, and is used to secure a post earring to the ear.
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Onyx
Onyx is a semiprecious type of chalcedony quartz
that is found naturally in white or gray; however, it is typically dyed black.
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Opal
Unlike any other gemstone, opal dazzles the eye
with a spectral display of flashing and dancing colors colors
that move and shift within the opal's mysterious depths. Opal is comprised
mostly of tightly packed silica (sand) and water. The silica refracts light and
creates the rainbow of colors for which opal is known. The wider and more
brilliant the range of color in an opal, the more valuable it is. Opals vary
widely in body color, with white being the most common. Most high-quality opals
found today come from the deserts of Australia. Opal is the birthstone for
October.
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Opal Triplet
An opal triplet is a manufactured stone that is
composed of three thin layers that are glued together. A thin layer of opal is
sandwiched between a layer of clear quartz and a layer of either obsidian or
ironstone. The clear quartz is the top layer, making the gem harder (and less
susceptible to scratches). An opal triplet is an opal doublet with a quartz
layer on top. Triplets must be cleaned very carefully.
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Opaque
Opaque means blocking the passage of light (as
opposed to translucent or transparent).
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Opera-Length
An opera-length necklace is a single strand that is
from 30 to 35 inches (60 to 90 cm) long. Opera-length generally refers to a
string of pearls that hangs to the breastbone.
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Optical Properties
An optical property is a gem's intrinsic ability to
interact with light. Some optical properties are color, dispersion and
fluorescence.
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Oval Cut
An
oblong, faceted gemstone cut with rounded edges. It is a variation of the round
brilliant cut. Oval cuts are popular for colored gemstones and diamonds.
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Palladium
A member of the Platinum group, Palladium is
lighter and less expensive than platinum and is mixed with yellow gold to
create white gold.
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Parure
A parure is a matching set of jewelry, usually containing
a necklace, earrings, brooch and a bracelet (or two bracelets).
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Paste
Paste is glass that is cut and faceted to imitate
gemstones.
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Pave Setting
A type of setting where several small gems are set
together to give the appearance of an uninterrupted surface.
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Pavilion
The pavilion is the bottom or base portion of a
diamond or gemstone; the lower part below the girdle.
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Pear Cut
A pear cut is a faceted cut that is teardrop
shaped. Pear cuts are popular for pendants, rings and earrings, and are
suitable for diamonds and colored gemstones.
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Pearl
Long known as the Queen of
Gems, the
pearl possesses a history and allure more compelling than any other gem. Pearls
grow in both saltwater and freshwater mollusks and come in a variety of hues
from white to blue, green, aubergine, pink, gold, gray and black. Traditionally
worn as strings, or set as pendants, today pearl rings are also popular
particularly with the rare and unusual black pearls. Pearl is the birthstone
for June.
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Pendant
A charm or other item worn on a chain that swings
freely.
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Penny Weight
Pennyweight, abbreviated PWT, is a unit of
measurement used for precious metals. Pennyweight is equal to 1/20th of an
ounce.
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Peridot
The peridot reflects a variety of green hues, from
dark leek green to a lighter yellow green. Peridot is a gemstone variety of
chrysolite that varies in color depending upon the balance of iron and
magnesium within the stone. The dominant source of peridot today is Arizona,
with other significant deposits in Myanmar, Brazil, Australia, Norway and
Africa. Peridot is the birthstone for August.
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Pierced Earrings
Earrings designed for pierced ears. A wire or post
is inserted through the ear lobe.
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Platinum (abbreviated PT or PLAT)
Platinum, which is abbreviated PT or PLAT, is the
most precious metal in jewelry making. It has a silvery-white tone and does not
tarnish. In addition, it is one of heaviest known substances.
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Plumb Gold
A term used to describe gold jewelry that contains
the precise amount of gold in the alloy that the Karat mark indicates. In the
past an item marked 14Kt could legally have been 13.5 karat and still
considered 14K. Today an item marked 14k must be at least 14 of 24 parts fine
gold and is considered plumb gold.
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Point
A unit of measure used to express the weight of
gemstones, equal to 1/100th of a carat. Twenty-five points (25) describes a 1/4
carat diamond.
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Polished Surface
A smooth and glossy surface, with no visible
imperfections.
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Post
A pin-like piece of metal attached to an earring.
The post passes through the wearer's pierced earlobe and is usually held in
place by an earring back.
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Precious Metal
Three metals -- gold, silver and platinum -- that
have been prized for centuries for rarity, beauty and physical properties.
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Precious Stone
Four gemstones -- diamond, emerald, ruby and
sapphire -- that are especially prized for beauty and rarity.
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Pre-Engagement Ring
An engagement style ring set with a very small
diamond, given in lieu of an engagement ring or as a prelude to an engagement
ring. Also called a promise ring.
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Premium Cut
The brilliance of a diamond depends on proper
cutting. Premium cut to Ideal cut diamonds ensure that the diamond chosen will
be as brilliant as it is beautiful. A diamond with these premium proportions
will cost more but its brilliance is well worth the added investment.
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Princess Cut
A square, faceted gemstone cut. The princess cut
has a broad, flat face area and parallel V-shaped grooves underneath with a
border of variously shaped facets. This cut provides excellent light refraction
and is a popular for diamonds.
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Princess Length
A princess length necklace (usually referring to a
string of pearls) is 18" long.
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Promise Ring
A pre-engagement ring offered with the promise of
ones heart. Typically similar to an engagement ring with a very small diamond,
maybe 5 points in size.
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Prong Setting
A
setting used for diamonds and gemstones whereby a group of claws or prongs hold
a gemstone in its mounting.
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Quartz
A crystalline mineral used for gems, including
amethyst and rock crystal. Available in a variety of colors.
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Radiant Cut
Radiant cut gemstones have a total of 70 facets,
combining the shape of an emerald cut gem and the sparkle of a brilliant cut
square or rectangular gem.
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Reconstructed Stone
A reconstructed stone is one that is made from
pieces of smaller stones or crystals). Reconstructed stones often have telltale
air bubbles. For example, "Geneva rubies" (reconstructed rubies) are
made from tiny ruby crystals that have been fused together. This type of stone
is generally no longer manufactured (except reconstructed amber, which is still
made) because synthetic stones are vastly superior to reconstructed stones.
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Retro
Retro jewelry is chunky, geometric jewelry from the
1940's. Pink gold was often used in retro pieces.
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Rhinestones
Rhinestones, abbreviated RS, is highly reflective
glass made to imitate gemstones. The original rhinestones were quartz stones
(rock crystal) obtained from the Rhine River. These stones were cut to resemble
gemstones. The best rhinestones today are made of highly reflective leaded
glass, which is faceted and polished.
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Rhodium
Rhodium is a metal that is part of the platinum
family. Silver, gold, and even base metals are often Rhodium plated to give
them the white, shiny look associated with platinum. Genuine rhodium in raw
state is liquid. Although in the platinum family of metals, it is not the same
as platinum, which is a solid precious metal.
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Rhodium Plating
Rhodium is used to plate white gold or yellow gold
or sterling, because it is harder and more reflective and white in color.
Rhodium plating gives a bright, shiny, long-lasting silver-colored finish to a
piece. With Rhodium plating you can achieve the high white luster of Platinum.
For people who are allergic to 10k or 14k gold jewelry, and cannot afford the
high price associated with Platinum, Rhodium plating helps minimizing allergic
effects and is a good alternative. It is noted that any kind of plating will
eventually wear off, requiring additional plating to maintain the desired
coloring effect.
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Rolled Gold
Rolled gold is a very thin sheet of gold that is
laminated to a lesser metal (usually brass). The two layers of metal are heated
under pressure to fuse them together. The sheet is them rolled into a very thin
sheet and then used to make jewelry or other objects. Jewelry made from rolled
gold wear well over time. Rolled gold pieces are marked rolled gold plate,
R.G.P., or plaquT d'or laminT.
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Round Cut
Round brilliant cut gemstones are known to have the
most vibrancy and sparkle. With 57 or 58 facets radiating from the center out
to the girdle, a brilliant cut maximizes the amount of light that is reflected
from the core of the gemstone.
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Rope Chain
A rope chain is a spiral-like chain with an
appearance of two thick, woven strands.
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Rose Quartz:
Carried by people to insure peace, fidelity, and
happiness. People believed rose quartz could emit a calm and cool energy, which
would enable it to gently remove all negativity and allow a person to feel the
loving, gentle forces of self-love. People felt this stone was good to wear in
a chaotic or crisis situation, and they referred to it as "the stone of
gentle love" because they believed it to be able to bring peace and calm
to all relationships. It was also thought to be an excellent energy for healing
emotional "wounds". Great for attraction love.
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Ruby
A
member of the corundum family of gems, the ruby is a red, clear stone. Known as
the "king of gems" the ruby is second only in value to diamond
(exceptional specimens surpass diamonds in value). Rubies are mined in Burma,
Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Kenya and Tanzania. Ruby is the birthstone for
July.
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Safety Catch
A safety catch is a secondary closure, used in case
the main clasp opens. It is usually a hinged loop that is attached to one side
of the clasp and snaps closed onto the other side.
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Sapphire
A member of the corundum family of gems, sapphires
are most commonly known for their deep blue color, although sapphires can also
be pink, orange, yellow, green, purple and colorless. Sapphires are found in
Kashmir, Myanmar Sri Lanka, Thailand, China, India, Cambodia, Australia and the
United States (Montana). Sapphire is the birthstone for September.
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Sardonyx
Believed to be able to lead a person to high
position, honor, renown, and financial rewards. It was said that if you hung
sardonyx around your neck, it could ease pain, give a person self-control, help
to attract friends, insure a happy marriage, and bring success in legal
matters. It was also believed to be able to restrain people who were inclined
to dissipation, and to be able to protect the wearer from all infections.
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Satin Finish
Satin finish, also known as a brushed or matte
finish, is a texturing technique used on jewelry metals where a series of tiny
parallel lines are scratched on the surface with a wire brush.
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Saturation
Saturation is the intensity of brightness or dullness
of the color. The more color saturated a gemstone is, the more valuable it
becomes.
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Scintillation
Scintillation (sparkle) is the tiny flashes of
light noticeable in a diamond when the observer moves his/her head.
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Screw Back
A screw back is an ear nut that screws onto a
threaded earring post; usually used with diamond stud earrings.
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Semi-mount
A semi-mount is a finished item of jewelry except
for the center stone setting, to which a stone is added separately.
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Semi-precious
Gemstones
A group of gemstones that are prized for their
beauty, but are not one of the four so-called precious stones (Diamond,
Emerald, Ruby or Sapphire).
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Setting
Setting refers to the style in which a gemstone is
held by precious metal into a mounting. Common settings include bezel, pave',
channel or prong. Setting also refers to the part of jewelry in which one or
more stones are set.
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Shank
The shank is the round body of the ring that
encircles the finger, not including the setting.
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Shape
There are eight common diamond shapes. They are
round, marquise, pear, oval, heart, princess/radiant, emerald, and trillion.
The round is the most popular (the rest are called fancy-shaped). There are
also other shapes created and sold by manufacturers.
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Shoulder
The part of the ring that extends from the shank to
the center of the setting.
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Signet
A ring with a flat table or face on which there is
an inscription of a coat of arms, family crest or some other type of insignia
or monogram.
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Silver
Fine silver is a white precious metal that is
999/1000 pure in its natural form and too soft for practical use. Sterling
silver is a shiny mixture of 92.5 % pure silver (925 parts) with 7.5 % metal
alloy used for jewelry.
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Silver Finish
Jewelry finished to have the look of silver.
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Slide Bracelet
A slide bracelet (also called slide charm bracelet)
is a type of modern-day charm bracelet made from stringing Victorian era watch
fob charms together on a double chain - the charms can slide along the chains.
When pocket watches (used by men) and necklace watches (used by women) went out
of style after wrist watches were invented, the charms on the watch chain were
removed and then strung together to make bracelets. Modern imitations are made
using modern-manufactured charms.
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Smokey Quartz
A dark variety of quartz that is deep brown in
color with a smoky appearance.
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Snap-bar Closure
Earrings
A straight, hinged bar that lifts up and down in
order to secure or release an earring.
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Solitaire
A single gemstone or diamond that is mounted in a
simple setting.
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Sparkle
The sparkle of a diamond or gemstone is the result
of the facets that are cut to reflect light. Sparkle is also referred to as brilliance.
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Spring Ring
A spring ring is a round, tubular metal fastening
ring with a spring gap. A spring-loaded arm keeps the clasp closed.
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Stack Ring
Rings that are designed to be worn two or more at a
time on the same finger.
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Stainless Steel
An extremely durable metal alloy that is virtually
immune to rust, discoloration and corrosion. It can be highly polished to
resemble a precious metal. Because of its strength, stainless steel is often
used to make the case backs for watches.
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Stamping
Stamping is cutting or embossing a sheet of metal
with a punch or a die.
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Star Setting
A star setting is one in which a gemstone or
diamond is set within an engraved star; the gem is secured by a small grain of
metal soldered to the base of each ray of the star.
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Step-Cut
A gem cut with a varying number of sloping parallel
rows of four-sided facets that give the impression of steps.
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Sterling Silver
The designation for a relatively pure silver alloy
consisting of 925 parts silver and 75 parts of another metal.
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Strap/bracelet
A watchband made of leather, plastic, fabric or
metal.
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Striations
Striations are grooves, lines and scratches found
naturally in some minerals.
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Stud Earrings
Stud earrings, also called studs, are a small,
simple style of earring for pierced ears. Studs contain a single stone (such as
a pearl, gemstone or diamond) or metal ball on a straight post. Diamond studs
are probably the most popular type of Diamond earrings.
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Spiney Oyster Shell
Used in Southwestern jewelry since prehistoric
times, as a base for intricate inlay. Shells symbolize the life that flourished
in the mystical oceans, far away from the desert southwest.
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Sugalite
Sugalite is an unusual deep purple stone from
Southern Africa.
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Symmetry
The symmetry of a diamond or gemstone is the
uniform degree to which a gemstone is cut. It has a hardness of 6 - 6.5 on the
Moh's Scale. Sugilite is found in Japan, Canada and South Africa.
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Synthetic Gemstones
Synthetic
gemstones, also called created, lab grown, or man-made, are materials produced
in a laboratory, which imitate the characteristics of naturally occurring gems.
Often difficult to distinguish from natural gemstones, synthetic gems are
typically created with little or no imperfections.
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Table
The table is the flat facet on the top of a
gemstone, located in the center of the crown.
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Tahitian Pearls
Tahitian pearls, also know as black pearls, are
gray to black with green, blue or rose overtones.
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Tanzanite
A relative newcomer to the jewelry industry,
tanzanite was discovered in 1967. It was named for its country of origin,
Tanzania. Tanzanite has quickly won over gem lovers with velvety purple and
blue hues. A tanzanite can appear blue, purple or reddish from different
angles.
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Tapered Baguette
A baguette in which the two short edges are unequal
in length causing the longer sides to taper in towards the short edge. Tapered
baguettes are very popular as accents in the settings of engagement rings.
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Tennis Bracelet
A tennis bracelet is made of matched gemstones or
diamonds. It is flexible and is usually worn loose around the wrist.
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Tension Setting
In a tension setting, the center stone appears to
be suspended in mid-air. This way, light refraction and therefore brilliance is
indeed maximized.
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Three-stone Diamond Ring
A style of a ring which has three diamonds. The
diamonds represent the past, present and future of a relationship. The center
stone is usually slightly larger.
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Tiffany Setting
A solitaire style setting that has a four or six
prong head or setting. It is usually used for rings or earrings.
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Titanium
A very light, durable, hypoallergenic metal of a
silvery color. It is popular among active people who don't want to worry about
scratching their jewelry.
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Tone
Tone represents how light or dark a stone appears
by how much brown, black, gray or white is present.
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Topaz
Topaz comes in a variety of colors, shapes and
sizes making it ideal for a wide variety of jewelry. The world's largest supplier
of topaz is Brazil and is the birthday stone for November.
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Total Weight
Total weight, abbreviated as t.w. or tw, is the sum
of the carat weight of all of the gemstones or diamonds in a piece of jewelry.
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Tourmaline
Tourmaline comes in all spectrums of color, the
most common being green and pink. With a hardness of 7-7.5, this gem is ideal
for all types of jewelry setting.
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Trillion Cut
Trillion cut, also called trilliant or triangle, is
a triangular shaped diamond or gemstone.
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Translucent
Translucent materials allow light to pass through
them, but the light is diffused (scattered). Some translucent stones include
moonstones, opals, and carnelian.
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Transparent
Transparent materials allow light to pass through
them without diffusing (scattering) the light. Some translucent stones include
diamond, zircon, emerald, rock crystal, and ruby.
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Trembler
A trembler is a piece of jewelry that has a part
(or parts) set on a spring; the spring-set parts move as the wearer of the
jewelry moves.
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Troy Weight
Precious metals (like gold, platinum, and silver)
are measured in troy weight, which has units of pennyweights, ounces, and
pounds. Troy ounces and pounds are different from everyday US measures.
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Turquoise
Turquoise is the heart of Southwestern tradition.
In Native American lore, turquoise is referred to as the Sky Stone,
representing the eternal heavens, the life giving sun, renewing rains.
According to Navajo legend, the sun was created from a piece of turquoise, the
moon from a piece of shell. Turquoise is the first recorded stone in history to
be used as a gem. Turquoise is currently mined in Arizona and New Mexico, USA;
Australia; Afghanistan; and Iran, which produces the finest quality of
Turquoise. It is the birthday stone for December.
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Ultrasonic cleaner
A machine that cleans jewelry by using a fluid that
vibrates at high frequencies (20,000 cycles per second).
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Wedding Set
A woman's wedding and engagement ring designed to
be worn together. Sometimes the wedding ring is shaped so that it fits around
the solitaire engagement ring, making the set look like a single piece.
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Wedding Trio
A three-piece wedding ring set consisting of his
and her matching wedding rings and a matching engagement ring.
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White Gold
White gold is alloyed with nickel and Zinc.
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Width
Width is the horizontal measurement of an item of
jewelry measured across the widest area.
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Yellow Gold
The most popular gold alloy. An alloy of gold,
silver, copper and zinc.
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Y-necklace
This style gets its name from its shape, which
features its own delicate dangle that forms a Y around the neck (Usually 16 to
18 inches in length).
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